Necchi BU

by Virginia, who blogs about her sewing projects (dresses!) at A Sewing Life

Love it, hate it, or something in between?
Oh, I certainly love it, but that's no great endorsement, since I seem to love all of my machines. I first got interested in trying out a vintage Necchi when the circuit board on my Bernina 160 failed. I surfed the internet reading various reviews and just happened across a couple of glowing accounts of vintage Necchis on Pattern Review. Their enthusiasm led me to the Vintage Necchis Yahoo Group. After reading along on this group for a couple of months, I had to have one. What they said is true, there is a quality to this massive chunk of Italian machinery that is quite unlike any other sewing machine I had used before.

When did you buy this sewing machine?
Summer of 2008. I had to wait until the fall to actually try it out. Read on...

When was it manufactured?
According to the Vintage Necchis Yahoo Group, this model was manufactured in Italy between 1948 and 1953. The easy-to-spot differences between this model (BU) and its successor, the BU Nova, are the VN (for Vittorio Necchi) logo on the machine bed, and the plain chrome face of the tension assembly. The later model had the newer cartoon-style N logo and a black face on its tension assembly.
    The BU is a flat bed machine with an oscillating hook and manual zig zag (which I believe means you select zig zag by shifting the stitch width lever rather than pushing a button). Necchis designated as BC, BCJ or BF are straight stitch only. The BU was manufactured in black or green. It is a very simple, very heavy cast iron machine with no plastic parts whatsoever.

     

Where did you buy it?
I had been watching eBay for a vintage Necchi for several weeks. This machine was listed by a damaged freight company. As far as I could tell from the very indistinct photo, its spool pins were bent, and the plastic modern case it had been shipped in was cracked, but otherwise things looked okay. It turned out that it came with no power cord or foot pedal, or attachments other than the bobbin case, one bobbin, and the all-purpose presser foot. I had ambitions of resolving the power situation myself, but in the end I took it to a local sewing machine mechanic who was backed up for seven weeks! The replacement foot control he provided is okay, but it does have a tendency to race. Since I sew clothing, I like to go slowly much of the time, and I find that I don't have the control I would like. I've heard of others with similar problems with replacement foot pedals. When the perfect treadle table comes along, I plan to convert this machine to treadle operation.
    I don't have a base or a cabinet with hinge pins for it. As a heavy machine that generates some vibration, it could really use the extra stability of one of those.

How much did you pay for it?
I paid $55, plus $30 shipping, which was a good deal, but then I spent around $100 for the mechanic's services and the foot pedal, and $40 for a set of attachments belonging to a BU Mira. My total cost was higher, and my gratification much more delayed, than if I had bought a complete outfit to begin with.
    In hindsight, I would not recommend buying a machine over eBay in unknown condition as one of your first vintage sewing machine purchases! A complete setup from a local source or a well-established eBay seller might have been a better way to go. In the year that I've been on the hunt, I've only seen two Necchis in my state (North Carolina). One had a broken part that is no longer available, and the other was the same machine I have, but after I had already bought this one.

How many projects have you done on this machine?
Quite a few, but other machines have happened along since, so it hasn't been my only machine. I pieced a twin quilt top and made my son a pair of jeans as the first pair of projects. I have made a couple of denim skirts for myself, several cotton blouses, a rayon dress with piping, and six very wide and long sheer curtain panels.

Describe the kind of work you've done with it.
This machine is wonderfully well-suited to a wide variety of woven fabrics. It handles light fabrics just as beautifully as very firm and heavy fabrics. I am not sure, in all honesty, that it pierces heavier fabrics any better than my modern Bernina 160 (which I did have repaired, to the tune of $250!). And I have not had great luck at all using it on lighter weight knits, such as jersey.

What do you like and what do you hate about it?
The sewing experience on this machine is fantastic. The BU gives me the feeling that together we can push right through nearly any project. It handles thick topstitching or upholstery thread in the needle and the bobbin much, much better than my Bernina. I love that it has an adjustable needle position (left, center and right). My Bernina probably has 10 different positions from left to right, but I love the simplicity of the three, which turns out to be plenty for any need. I like that it has adjustable presser foot pressure, which two older Berninas I used to own did not. I like that the feed dogs can be dropped for free motion work, though I haven't explored that much yet. This machine is a high shank model, so it can use many industrial presser feet. These feet are rugged, very specific to a purpose and cost between $5-$10 per foot. Compare that to between $30-$60 per Bernina foot!
    Somehow the visibility of the sewing surface and the ease of reaching it on this machine are both great. The "head" of my Bernina seems to be higher and come forward more, and I feel like I hunch over more when using it. The ergonomics of the Necchi are terrific for me. It's awesome to set the levers in one position and know that they will stay put until I change them. On the other hand, it isn't so easy to change back and forth between different settings on the fly.
    I wish it handled knits better, and sometimes I wish it was a pink and cream Supernova with the circular needle plate and a full set of cams! This machine does straight stitch and zig zag, forward and back, and free motion work. That's all. That's enough.
    I haven't seen a lot of discussion about the way the needle mounts on these vintage machines versus the more modern arrangement, but it presents an issue for me. The needle mounts with the flat side to the right. Threading goes left to right. This is not just Necchis, but actually all of my vintage machines. It's easy enough to thread, and easy to insert the needle once you learn which way the flat side goes, but it doesn't make two parallel rows of stitching with a twin needle. Instead the twin needle makes a sort of a shadow effect vertically. I like to use a twin needle for hemming knits, so I have to hold onto a modern machine for this purpose.

Comments

[jordan 3]

The sands in your way beg for your song and your movement, dancing water. will you carry the burden of their lameness? Do you understand?

[necchinut]

Hi, today 03-12-10, I have a Necchi Lelia 512 that has a TOTALLY FROZEN nedlebar, the zigzag lever and the needle position lever WILL move when the handwheel is in a certain position but the needlebar wont move at all, havent tried the hot air treatment yet, am really STUMPED as this is the first Necchi that I have had that is so frozen, and I have fixed alot of others in my collection, so you think it is REALLY the needlebar that is at fault?? I can HAMMER it from left to right but that seems ABSURDLY stiff for the small area of the needle column where it pivots from?? any tips most helpful, necchinut@gmail.com

[Dave T.]

I had an old Singer with this problem, and after thoroughly saturating it with penetrating oil, I used a wooden hammer to knock it loose. At first it was very stiff, but soon became free, and the more you run it the better it gets until it is completely free. However, that problem was on a straight stitch machine.

[Melissa]

Hi! I just inherited this machine from a friend. I'm new to sewing, and I can't wait to get started, BUT I have one problem. I don't know where to put the oil. I know there are two places near the back of the machine that are labeled for oil, but I can't figure out where it goes up near the needle. I don't have an instruction manual... Can you help?

[Sarah]

Hey I have a Necchi Bu Mira. Two actually because I bought another off Craigslist after the first one was damaged in a near car accident. Apparently everyone knows you shouldn't put your sewing machine on the backseat, only on the floor of the car. Needless to say it fell down, damaged something in the motor/electrical area and I returned it to the repair shop for more work and they needed replacement parts. I now have two desk type holders.
Anyway, my real point in writing is that I have the same problem with the twin needle settings on my Necchi and I was wondering if you figured out a work around. I mostly sew knit fabrics and I REALLY WANT a double stitched hem. Someone at the local quilt shop mentioned an offset twin needle setup might be available on the internet, not in a real store. I googled "twin needle sewing necchi" and found your post above.
So if you very kindly have a solution, please either email me or post something here and I will be in your debt. Perhaps enough to relinquish my second desk for a Necchi.

Thanks,
Sarah

[Deborah Keogh]

HI, I just got my Necchi BU from a Savers store for $29.99 and have sewn away on it but now I can't get the bobbin casing arm to stay in the slot, it pops right out of it. I don't get it. I have been a seamstress for 50 years and can usually solve anything but never owned a Necchi before. (I usually sew on an old industrial Singer 107W1 straight/zig zag machine. When I turn it on, the lights go dim in my house!).

My other problem is, after sewing a while, I was teaching my 8 year old, and I tried to move the needle placement to the left and it is frozen to the right. I was able to move it around at other times but not now. And the zig zag part gets frozen also.

So now with the bobbin popping out I am without a machine. I can sew with the needle on the left position for myself, but when teaching others, it really should be in the center position. Can any one help.

I will need detailed instructions though I am mechanical. I really liked this machine! Thank you all so much! Deb

[circuit board]

I just love that. Thanks for sharing this captivating stuff. Great post!

[Debbie Shumaker]

My dad bought my mom a Nechhi BU in the 1950's shortly after they were married. It came with all of the attachments and is the only machine our family has owned. I use it to this day making clothing and quilts. I wouldn't trade it for any other machine. I do however take it in every 5 or 6 years for a check up and nothing is ever wrong with it except a belt needing replacement.