Shopping tips from an expert

Here's a great, great summary of shopping tips offered by McKenna Linn, who reviewed her cutie Elna Grasshopper for the site. McKenna's got a houseful of gorgeous sewing machines, which she buys -- often on eBay -- and refurbishes herself.

How to shop for a used sewing machine

#1: KNOW WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR.
What do you want to do with your sewing machine? Sewing machines are not created equal. Different machines do different things well. Knowing your personal priorities will help you select the right machine for YOU. Despite what some people say, there is no "best" machine or brand. Period.

Most people are enticed by all the tricks that a sewing machine can perform, yet when it comes to actual sewing, most people use a straight or zigzag stitch 95% of the time. There are exceptions, of course. But if you are looking to sew for your kids, your home, yourself, chances are you'll be best served by a machine that does the basics (straight and zigzag stitching) over a range of fabrics really well. Such a machine will also probably serve you well if you're a beginner and don't yet know exactly what you'll end up wanting to sew. If you're a quilter, a machine that excels at freemotion stitching may be your priority. If you like to take classes, portability may be your priority. If you want to sew while on the road or out camping, a handcrank may be your priority. If you want to make bags or upholstery, heavy-duty may be your priority. If you want to embellish ready-to-wear garments, an embroidery machine may be your priority. Be honest with yourself. Knowing what YOU need is the first step to choosing the right machine.

#2: UNDERSTAND THE RISKS OF EBAY.
Don't get me wrong, I love eBay. But buying a sewing machine long-distance carries some unique risks. For one thing, sewing machines are heavy, and most people selling them haven't a clue how to pack for safe shipping. If they (or the packing "experts" they hire) simply throw the machine into a box of styrofoam peanuts, you can be sure that the machine will arrive damaged, often severely. Before you bid, ask the seller if they have packed/shipped sewing machines before, and if not, if they're willing to follow your packing guidelines to ensure safe travel (there are several online documents outlining proper packing).

Perhaps even greater a risk on eBay, sellers lie. They really do. I'll give the benefit of the doubt and say that some really might not know, but there are several notable repeat, blatant liars. Their ads are slick, their claims glowing, and they use the descriptive term "industrial" liberally. (Using that term nets them one or two or three hundred dollars extra per machine; I understand the temptation, but their ethics fail me.) True industrial machines are designed to do a particular task all day long, and to do it fast. That task could be heavy-duty--which is what these sellers want you to connote from their use of the term--but sewing lingerie, for instance, is also an industrial-machine task, and you sure wouldn't want to be sewing leather or horse blankets with such an "industrial-strength" machine.

And a third big buyer-beware thing about buying on eBay, most people selling machines there don't know sewing machines. They absolve themselves of responsibility by saying, "as is." Again, questionable ethics, as far as I'm concerned. But as a buyer, be aware that pretty much any machine sold as-is, from an estate, "the light bulb comes on so it works," etc., is suspect. For example, there is a Singer model 99 machine on eBay right now, without the knee controller. The seller says "it works," but in fact there is no knee controller so there is no way a person can use this machine, save turning the handwheel by hand, stitch by stitch. Those knee bars are no longer made, cannot be purchased except from someone who has taken apart another model 99, for parts in other words, not readily available. And yet the machine is advertised as working, because the light comes on when it's plugged in. Just one of many, many such examples. You need to know what's required for any particular machine to function properly before bidding, and be sure the machine has all its necessary parts.

And finally (not really, but among the biggies), be aware that most machines you buy on eBay (or craigslist) will need work. Even if the seller says it was serviced recently, think about it. There's a reason it's for sale. Either it hasn't been used in a very long time--a bad thing for sewing machines, that need to be used regularly to stay healthy--or there's some problem that prevents them from being used. Either way, you're looking at a $75 minimum fee at a shop for a COA (clean-oil-adjust job). More--perhaps quite significantly more--if there are mechanical problems, the wiring needs replacing, and/or parts need to be ordered.

#3: IF POSSIBLE, TRY IT OUT.
As stated in #1, every machine is different and so is every user. People react differently to different machine styles, colors, interfaces, etc. If at all possible, take some of the fabrics you are planning to sew and try the machine out on them. See how it handles them. Take your preferred threads, too. Personally, the machine that so many people tell me is "the best machine ever made," well, I hate it. But I tried it myself, so did not make an expensive mistake. It's okay to make up your own mind about what's best for YOU! Remember, you're the one who has to live with the machine.

#4: KNOW WHAT YOU'RE WILLING TO PAY.
Prices for used sewing machines vary wildly. Sometimes you'll see a beautifully maintained workhorse listed for $25, and other times a rusted out junker with rotted wiring will be listed for $450. The bottom line is that a machine is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it.   

As a rule, the older the machine, the more variable the price range. Machines that are still in production are easy to compare and calculate depreciation on, so you can come up with a reasonable price, just like used cars. But machines that are 50 or 100 years old are harder to put a value on. On the one hand, they often need a thorough cleaning, possibly rewiring, and oiling, which if you can't do it yourself will cost probably $50 to $150. On the other hand, once that maintenance is done, if you bought a good one, you well might have a trouble-free machine that'll last your lifetime. Some exceptional-quality machines that fall into that category, in my opinion, are the Necchi Nova, Mira, and SuperNova models; the Elna Grasshopper (model #1); and the Singer 201, 301, 15-90, and 401/403 models.

The new "plastic wonder" machines that are being sold for just under $200 are, in my opinion, a total waste of money. They are going to jam, stitch poorly, and generally give you fits rather than making sewing a pleasure. Many people end up throwing them out after a year or two of frustration, or, sadly, give up on sewing because it's no fun. A far better use of those dollars, I think, is in a solid vintage machine. There are zillions of all-metal, Japanese-made machines from the '50s and '60s, for instance, based on the classic Singer model-15 design (hence they are called "15 clones"), with fun names, often in sparkling candy-colors, that are available in thrift shops and at yard sales for $25 or less. Put $100 into getting it refurbished and you have a better machine for less money than a new plastic wonderŠ and one with history and character to boot. If you need something with fancier stitches than a 15 clone, check out the Necchi SuperNovas or the Singer 401/403 models; their capabilities are astounding.

Consider that top-of-the-line sewing machines being made today cost thousands of dollars, and they probably won't last nearly as long as the best of the vintage machines. So what is a good used sewing machine worth?

McKenna Linn
Fiber Artist
http://www.mckennalinn.com